Awl Together Leather: How This BC Business Is Redefining the Cobbling Industry

Tess Gobeil and Ariss Grutter are the co-owners of Awl Together Leather, a custom leatherwork and shoe-repair business based out of a studio in East Vancouver. Founded amid the pandemic in May 2021, this queer-owned business is dedicated to inclusivity and accessibility, aiming to transform their industry from the inside out.

Small Business BC reached out to Tess and Ariss to learn more about their mission to create an equitable and welcoming space, and how they champion sustainability and community in their work.

Finding Their Passion

Tess came to cobbling after studying papermaking and bookbinding in Montreal. “I knew I wanted to work with my hands, but I didn’t want to go back to school,” she said. After moving back to Vancouver, she ended up cold-calling a local cobbler who agreed to take her on as an apprentice.

Ariss began shining shoes to support themself through university and discovered a passion for working with their hands. This led to a small sole proprietorship in the basement of a local leather consignment store. Later, at a local boot manufacturer, Tess and Ariss met and bonded over their shared experiences as underrepresented leatherworkers. This connection is what led them to co-founding Awl Together Leather.

“We’re a niche business within a niche industry,” Ariss said, “Both in terms of who we are and what services we offer.” With new, unique projects being brought to them daily, staying engaged is easy. “What keeps me here are the interesting projects that we get every day, seeing our community, and helping them figure out shoe repair and even accessibility repair,” Ariss said. 

Accessibility

Tess and Ariss opened Awl Together Leather with the goal of increasing textile sustainability and shifting the demographic of their industry. One step they took to diversify their industry was to make their business more accessible to staff and customers.

“One of the things we take really seriously is accessibility, so we hired an accessibility consultant that helped us go through all of our hiring practices,” Tess said. Since they’re new bosses, they wanted to make sure they weren’t bringing in biases that existed in their industry. 

For customers, accessibility looks like a full physical audit available on their website, open communication about what to expect with repairs, and creative problem-solving for disability-related work such as sewing wheelchair bags.

Changing the Industry

“When it comes to changing the industry, we advertise really boldly that it’s a priority to us, and we’re not afraid to say it,” Tess explained. This has attracted more applicants motivated by Awl Together Leather’s commitment to accessibility and inclusivity. One step at a time, they’re fostering a more inclusive and equitable industry. 

“Our shop is colourful, bright, and very well organized, and I feel like that makes it a lot easier to know that you’re in a slightly different type of cobbling shop,” Ariss said. It’s a more welcoming environment where people can feel comfortable asking questions. “I feel like people know that we represent slightly different things,” they said, “We lead with value.”

Awl Together Leather co-owners, Tess and Ariss, smiling and standing at a counter in their shop, with racks of jackets and shoes behind them.

Achievements and Obstacles

The Awl Together Leather co-owners explained that one of their most rewarding moments has been winning BC Business 30 Under 30. “That was a really lovely moment just to be recognized for what we were doing in our community,” Ariss noted.

Another significant achievement has been the refinement of their hiring process. “Any small business owner will tell you that hiring and managing staff is a challenge, especially when you’re getting started,” Ariss said. They explained that hiring has been difficult due to the specialized nature of their work and the more lengthy training process.

They recalled a significant ‘full-circle’ moment when a departing member of their staff met their replacement at a staff event and the team felt unabridged. “It felt like a moment of growth to see that integration process go so well,” Ariss said.

They also mentioned how managing a work-life balance was difficult, especially in their first year of business. Over time, they’ve gotten much better at finding stability. “We’re grateful to have two people, it’s very helpful,” Ariss said.

Plans for the Future

Right now, they’re developing repaired prototypes of Doc Martens, Birkenstocks, Red Wings, and many other shoes. They’re a resource, Ariss explained, “So that the general public has more knowledge on what shoe repair can accomplish.”

Because footwear is made from so many different types of materials, there aren’t any recycling services for them. “They can’t take apart the shoe to separate the materials, so repairing and resoling is the only way to keep your footwear out of landfills,” Ariss said. 

Tess and Ariss also just took a trip to the North American Shoe Repair Convention and are excited to integrate the knowledge and supplies they found there. “It took us to other leaders in the cobbling industry to discuss what our industry needs to see more of in terms of keeping shops open, bringing people in to work for us, and educating the public around coming to us for specific things,” Tess explained.

Resources to Check Out

Here are some of Tess and Ariss’ favourite women-owned or queer-owned businesses they recommend:

  • The Bad Academy – Workshops by and for women, on everything from bookkeeping to car maintenance. 
  • Big Bro’s Barbershop – Vancouver-based trans-owned barber shop.
  • The Learnary – Non-profit shop fostering learning and connection through events and workshops.
  • The Stitchery Studio – Fabric shop that also offers classes on sewing, quilting, embroidery, and more.

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